sensus

france

jean-francois cuzin

beaujolais

 

l'Air du temps, rouge

 

 

Here is a video in french of Jean-François talking about .. wine.

 

Cuzin worked for the post office before plunging into the wine game and he farms one hectare bio-dynamically in Quincie-en-Beaujolais.

JEF's wine reminds me of his vineyards, alive. In the vines are wild herbs, strawberries, flowers etc… The 1 hectare of vines are very old and low yielding. Naturally, the yields are approximately 15 hl/ha. Some of the best wines in the Bojo are coming from village vines instead of the crus. They have the same southern exposure, soils and are on slopes. To those who think you must be certified organic to be taken seriously must visit these vineyards.

 

JEF always has volatile acidity in his wines, but it is perfectly balanced. He believes that in small amounts, it can add complexity or sense of place/style. Think rustic Italian barbera or bonarda in the form of Bojo. The wines are very accessible when young, with lots of air, but will last for decades.

 

JEF’s winery is very cold and his fermentations always start slow and take a long time. The 2016 grapes were placed into tank September 7th and did not finish fermenting until June 15th of 2017, with many interruptions. The longer that sugars remain unfermented, the greater the chance that lactic bacteria will consume the sugars, causing volatile acidity. It almost took 1 year to ferment this wine and CO2 or SO2 were not added to protect the wine. Try explaining this to someone who makes wine and watch the reaction as they try to comprehend what you just read.

 

JEF's wines have a lot of volatile, but this acidity is checked with a super intense, lively, concentrated and ridiculous core set of fruit. If not for this, the volatile would overpower, but in conjunction with the fruit, the wine is intense, yet lively and fresh. Volatile acidity gets a bad rap these days and there was a reason you needed to wait decades to drink Bordeaux, Piemontese Nebbiolo and Madeira...... lots of volatile acidity..

 

JEF started in 2011, but is not completely sold on the Bojo because there are other places in France he loves. He will always make wine, but maybe not in the Bojo one day.

JEF’s winery is very cold and
his fermentations always
start slow and take a long time…

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