Château Lusseau represents excellent value from the specific mineral sturdiness that is much respected in the great wines of Graves. The Lusseau estate has been cared for and owned by the Béregère’s family for over a century, and its vineyards are treated much like family. No chemicals are used, and no effort is spared in the loving pursuit of quality among the vines as everything is done by hand.
Quellien Bérengère is the estate’s current mastermind, who returned after a departure from the family’s historical trade after a stint as an attorney in 1997. She returned to work alongside her parents to craft the greatest wines possible from the excellent terroir of her family’s vineyards in only traditional methods. Bérengère is passionate about preserving these traditional methods, and says that for her, being organic is about “respect for the terroir, the wine and the people who work here.”
The estate’s 7 ha are located close to the Graves appellation’s northern extremes, and are located only half a mile south of the revered PessacLéognan subregion. Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the dominant grape in this quarter of Bordeaux, but both of Chateau Lusseau’s excellent red cuvées feature Merlot occupying the largest portion of the blend.
The fascinating result is the extent to which it really
is the soil and the environment of Graves that run the show. Despite common preconceived notions about Merlot’s predilection toward plumpness or gentleness, these are wines with serious backbone and a distinct potential for cellaring.