la dernier goutte
What I find most surprising about Cyrille's wines is the tartness of the acidity. When tasted blind, many have been stumped because the acidity steered them elsewhere. While most gamay is consumed young, it ages quite well. One time at Bern's steakhouse, I consumed cru Bojo from the early 80s and they were alive and fantastic. Cyrille's wines can be enjoyed young with lots of air, but the acidity, tannin structure and fruit make them perfect candidates for aging.
Recently, Cyrille decided to bottle a PMG (pour ma goule) wine. This is French slang for "for my face". Cyrille has a tiny parcel that he never blended into his wines because it was so damn good by itself. After a long time of hassle, he was finally convinced to bottle it. If you find yourself in a winery, pose a question and the response is PMG (usually pronounced as just letters), it means they are keeping it to drink themselves. I managed to get some bottles!
Cyrille loves to experiment and will subject grapes from the same vineyard (based on age or exposition) to different vinification techniques by length of maceration and type of fermentation vessel. He never adds CO2 or SO2 and the grapes speak for themselves. In 2016, he was curious about how a wine would taste without the large stem in the middle because in the Bojo, it is all about whole bunches.
If you pass grapes through a de-stemming machine, some will break open, thus preventing a carbo maceration. The goal was to have whole grapes and the only way for us to accomplish this was the tedious and time consuming task of cutting each grape off the main stem with scissors. By maintaining the small stem that connects to the grape, it was the same as whole bunches, minus the large stem. It took forever to fill 2 decent size amphoras; however, I just tasted the wine..it is super good and in the future, I will get 250 bottles! Based on labor, it will not be cheap.
— Jeff Snow
la Baleine ivre, 2016
sang neuf, 2016